Day 28 We’ve decided that we live in a part of the
world that has
- a revolving restaurant with a 390 degree view, 36 hours in every day and 6
Mondays in every week Time and space have different parameters here.
We had gale warnings so weighed anchor at 5:20 for the trip around Estevan Point. Because of fog, we didn’t get to see land until we rounded into Hot Springs Cove. (about 4 hours of ocean-only view). Estevan Lighthouse is the tallest on the BC Coast – can be seen for 18 miles in clear weather (alas, it was not to be!) .
The water maker has been slow – Dave figured out we’re getting an airlock in the tank so he’s loosened our “fresh water intake” plug to let air in.
Every odd engine noise made us nervous while rounding Estevan Point – but now we feel that everything is A-OK. Once, Norm opened up the cover to the engine in their stateroom without telling us and we heard the motor noise change radically – whew!! A relief when in those open waters to find out it “was nothing!”
First part of the trip was rough but as we entered Hesquiat Harbour the swells and waves were just fine. I wanted to go to Cougar Annie’s garden (now donated for studies), after reading the book, but there is a min. donation of $30/ea so we didn’t go to Boat Basin but continued straight across. Our book suggested going to the hot springs early in the day or late in the day – due to tourists who arrive by boat (Zodiacs and charter boats). We got there at 10 am and Dave & I were both bagged from little sleep the night before and the early trip so we napped.
There is a mile boardwalk through the forest to the Sharp Point Hot Springs – fun in itself. By the time we got there, it was busy (Sunday to boot). We squeezed into rock crevices under hot spring showers and into small pools of water – looking out into the cove -- and got to meet folks from Germany, Pakistan and the Maritimes.

Day 29 I would gladly have gone up again early the next morning (when no one is there) but getting there and back requires an hour. There is a private campground at the Park Entrance (out of sight in the woods) and I slightly envied those who could just stay!
Found out that the poor old sailor (whose boat landed on the rocks at Walter’s Cove) later sailed it around to Tofino for the insurance people, with half a rudder. He is devastated at the wreck – his first accident in his long years of sailing and said he “risked his life” to sail it in that damaged condition and that that was his last trip on the West Coast!
We circled around Flores Island (West Clayoquot Sound) and docked in Ahousat at a public dock. A lot of our buddies were there (Yola, Rhapsody, Martha Anne). Some had taken the water taxi from there to Tofino for a day of shopping etc. Apparently, it’s hard to get space in Tofino and the taxi is just $10. We shopped in the store run by Hughie (who also runs the fuel dock, restaurant, etc.)

His parents donated Hot Springs Maquinna Park to the province in 1954. I think everything at Ahousat is owned by Hughie and his sister. After a while, this place grew on me – and so did Hughie and Patti! The fuel is the cheapest here of the entire coast – go figure! We did an hour hike into the woods where there should have been a dam, but stopped short of finding it and headed back as it was getting dark. The further south we go, the fewer bears we see.
A barge stopped at the Ahousat dock, carrying a 3000 lb. totem pole. The natives said it was going to be erected just below Estevan Point for a gathering place for their people. It was only 2 parts – a man with a rattle (music) and an octopus holding a shark in its tentacles.

Day 30 Sailed to Opitsat and tied up at Native public dock - we couldn’t have stayed there if we didn’t tell them that Norm & MaryLou’s grandson was going to be married to Rosemary (called Bishop in Nanaimo). Rosemary is from there - and nearly everyone in the village is related. They visited a few family members while I baked cookies. Later, as we motored past Tofino we saw a couple of the Tall Ships in harbour - taking folks out on tours.

Very shallow waters everywhere here in this sound – and many crab pots (commercial) so we had to pick and choose our pathways. We anchored in Kennedy Cove and took our dinghy up Kennedy River to the rapids. The water is 18 – 19 degrees and Paul & Bill from Yola went back up with their towels for a “shower”. This is the closest we’ve come to wanting to swim and would have if it was earlier in the day - fresh water! Explored old landing sites on the edge of the cove – lots of grass, about 2 feet high at our anchor site.
Day 31 We toured around Meares Island - everything is shallow. Anchored in Adventure Cove (where Capt. Gray wintered in 1787 and built the boat “The Adventure”) Opitsat is the site of the village that Capt. Gray, of Boston, totally destroyed - just recently his descendants have made a formal apology – it was so horrific.
There are quite a few houseboats tethered here and there in this sound. Most are colorful. Folks from the one in our cove gave Yola enough Dungeness crab for all of us. Stan baked them in the oven with lemon juice and garlic – a different method than we’ve ever tried. So we had a cocpkit party! Yum!!
Day 32 Weighed anchor at 5:25 am as we are rounding Cox Point and going 25 miles or more to Ucluelet. Travelled in fog again but good seas. As soon as we were running with the swells, down the coast, the traveling was fine – but no wind to help us along. Five hours later, we tied up at friendly Ucluelet public dock - with other sailing buddies and the powerboat Martha Anne also showed up. Hey!! There’s a thrift store here! Dave and I did laundry at a local motel/pub. Only 2 of the dryers didn’t have an “Out of Order” tag. However, a local came in and used a “bad” one – apparently the only thing wrong with it was it just dropped his looney back in an opening where he could pick it up again – but the machine was fine - local knowledge! (Also, some of the others worked, he said, if you pushed things the right way!)
The wharfinger gave Dave 2 buckets of halibut - that had only had large fillets removed. Norm did his magic and we have enough halibut for 4 meals (last night had halibut in batter with oven fries - ummmm good). Gord, aren’t we resourceful?? Dave had to take the carcasses out of the harbour as they don’t want to encourage seals and sea lions at the dock. In fact, there’s a sign “Don’t feed the sea lions” on the docks. Dave’s off looking for a motor for our fridge assist – as ours is “tired”. Foggy morning – yesterday it didn’t lift until evening. Hope today is clearer. Love y’all MaggiLou.